Thursday, May 30, 2013

congratulations

A friend, Gabriel, sent me this essay some time ago, and I have been meaning to share it ever since.  I want to share it because I agree with it, passionately, but also because it perfectly captures Gabriel's intelligence and anger, both of which I miss very much since he is no longer in Beijing.  So, with his permission, I am putting it here.  

Also, by happy coincidence, this happens to be the day that France celebrated its first gay marriage, following months of violent protests that seemed to polarize the whole of society.  Congratulations to the happy couple:

Just as Eskimos have a ton of words for snow, Mexicans have them for “homosexual.’ Growing up there, no day passed without a new addition to the long list that included joto, maricón, machorra and volteado. There was no need to get used to it. It was, and sadly still is, everyday life for many. A cultural fixture, some would say. It comes with the package, with the passport – a frequent reminder that something that is part of one’s deep nature is wrong and, in most cases, sinful. Hell-worthy.  Tolerable at best.

Now, a few years later when -as Taylor Swift predicted- I am living in a big old city, in the core of the West,a haven for democrats and any left-wing of the world. One would think the mindset has evolved among people here. Isn’t it the newest trend to legalize same-sex marriage and slowly make it part of the Western platform? – Didn’t Hillary Clinton say “gay rights are human rights, and human rights are gay rights”? – Well, efforts have certainly not been enough.

I have come to realize homophobia has been rationalized and renamed, while keeping its stance and pervasiveness. You see, at 27 I considered myself too old to go around convincing people the LGBTQI community was not a plague. I had conceded to remain in my corner and make as many efforts as my daily life would allow, but not much more other than that.

And still, like a bad guest at a house party, an acquittal told me – at my house nonetheless- homosexuals were not fit to be parents. “Marriage? – Yeah, another word would do the trick better, though. Children? Not my cup of tea.” I attempted to drop the topic in the name of civility to other guests.

However, after his insistence on talking about the topic, I ended up pulling an Ayn Rand on how I lived in a free country which, while allowed him to say whatever he desired, did not oblige me to listen and even less to engage in the conversation. I kept wondering, and still do, what the point of the whole thing was. LGBTQI parents have data and science in their favor. What’s more, we have millions of starving orphans that turn the situation into a priority and not a mere hypothesis. It is sad that thousands of children remain in foster homes as political hostages.

I was sort of forced to talk to this guy who calls himself my friend – although there is a discrepancy between us on such allegation. For him, it is alright if we hang out, drink, talk about sex and love (within what he considers reasonable limits), but at the end of the day, I am not and will never be good enough to raise a child for him. Suddenly, it was average-Mexican-city all over again. No point in making witty comments against such ban. At the end of the day, I’d still be a maricón who attempted to challenge nature to get his hands on innocent prey.

The next day, because life enjoys such irony, a French friend told me how it made sense that a million people protested in France against same-sex marriage. “They are not homophobic; they are just fighting for traditional values. Even gays in France don’t support the bill!,” he said. All I could wonder was who these so-called defenders were and whether they actually uphold such values they so deeply seemed to care about. “It would all be too complicated; thus, it might make sense to avoid the mess,” he said. He continued talking about the legal hassle it would be… Filiation, divorce, property and all sorts of law. All those big words that attempt to enclose our mundane daily life.

We tend to forget how much the world has changed in just the last 100 years. From women barred from voting to segregation and Alan Turing going through a chemical castration, among many other examples that unfairly remain unmentioned; the world –especially the Free World – has become a tiny bit freer inch by inch.

There is and has never been status quo. Was it necessary to change legislation to allow people from different races to marry in a bunch of U.S. states? Hell, yeah. Didn’t people have to change their mindset to stop saying “I believe you are the same than me, but please use another bathroom/room/school”? Yet, a week does not go by without listening to why I am not fit to be a parent, why it would be too complicated to allow me to marry the person I love, and even to hear arguments on why LGBTQI people should be considered disabled.

When I brought the topic on how I had been called unfit to be a parent, an American friend said my guest had been rude. Rude. That was the sole word he used. For him, the mistake was not in the content, just the setting. Dignity is still on the table for debate. Equality is still something we can opt in or out. Would there have been outrage had the topic been race, gender or national origin?

I do not pretend or seek to discover the wheel that will lead towards equality. It is a mere thought on how the attempt to rationalize such arguments validates the underlying belief that they and we are simply not the same; that there is, indeed, such thing as them and us. “Separate but Equal 2.0.”

Perhaps it is time to get out of my corner. As a really good Ally just said “I call for us to stand on the side of justice and to don't 'agree to disagree.' Let's stop being cordial and begin to strive for equality and justice.” The horrors of what intolerant people can do have been exemplified on several occasions. We shall not be victims of our destiny. Not even them can stop us now.

Monday, May 27, 2013

Performance

One of the strange caprices of working in China is that you occasionally have to take part in variety shows.  Usually, they are held to mark festivals, for example, the first one I ever took part in was in Xinjiang, and as I was working for a school, there was a special celebration to mark Teachers' Day.  We had only just arrived in China at that point, and were frankly bamboozled that we were expected to prepare some kind of sketch, or song, or performance to share with our new colleagues.  In the end, we hashed out a silent spoof of Titanic, with a lone trumpeter playing "My Heart Will Go On" in the background.  The Chinese crowd was restless, perplexed, polite.  We shuffled off stage, and took comfort in the fact that we could claim our performance was very Western, and therefore avant-garde.  I guiltily reflected that perhaps the reaction might have been warmer if I hadn't left the boat in the taxi.

Since Chinese New Year is the daddy of Chinese festivals, it's also the time when the most spectacular variety shows take place.  There are certain iron-clad rules to these proceedings: firstly, there must always be two hosts, one male and one female.  If the organization has a significant number of foreigners, it's customary for there to be a Chinese/Western split too.  Secondly, there must always be ethnic-minority folk dancing in flamboyant costumes.  Thirdly, it's bad manners not to take part.

The last rule causes the most headaches.  Our Chinese office manager received an invitation for us to take part in the China Center for Disease Control (China CDC) Lantern Festival sometime in early February.  Immediately, she started planning - you could see that for her this was a question of pride - if we were going to eat their food, then we were damn well going to earn it.  Yet, at the same time, she had to face the fact that our office lacks star material.  We simply don't have anyone with a secret, glittering talent for folk-dancing/erhu-playing/acrobatics.  What to do?

Usually, there are two responses.  The first one, which I like to call the "WHO response" after its most ardent practitioner, is to get all the staff up on stage together to sing a song while bobbing around in a somewhat rhythmic manner.  In 2012, they used this technique to perform "Puff the Magic Dragon", and in 2013, they did it again with "We are the World" .  The second one is "performance by nomination", whereby the office manager arbitrarily picks on someone, and tells them that they have to take a hit for the reputation of the office.  Given that most of our office was away at the time, our office manager opted for the second option.

So, here is what happened when my office manager nominated me to represent the office at China CDC Lantern Festival in February this year.  I have a small confession to make though - even though the office manager put pressure on me to do this, I had actually been preparing for this moment for 8 years.  In fact, very early during my time in China I learnt the social benefits of singing.  Way back in Xinjiang, I was puzzled to find that my students enjoyed listening to their foreign teachers' singing, and that, incredibly, this could be used as an incentive for good behavior.  Later came the discovery of karaoke, and the kudos that comes from knowing Chinese songs.  And then, for one whole year in the UK, I used pop-songs to teach myself new Chinese characters.  So in a way this performance was the opportunity my efforts had been looking for.  



And the reaction?  It ranged from the gushing ("Did you train professionally?") to the crushing ("you chose that song really well, because the singer is from Taiwan, and no one can understand what he is saying.  And you also, we cannot understand what you are saying").  At least my office manager was appeased.  And, at the end of the evening, the 55 year-old office manager and I did something that I thought only British teenagers did - we went round the nearby tables, and collected up all the unfinished bottles of wine, and all the unopened bottles of beer, and pocketed them.  



Monday, May 6, 2013

Two exhibitions


Last week I visited Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid, which is the main modern art gallery there.  There was one exhibition of artists active in Latin America that I particularly liked - La Invencion Concreta (http://lainvencionconcreta.org)



Then, on Sunday, a friend invited me to another exhibition - "De Picasso a Barcelo".  The exhibition tried to trace the relationship between painting and sculpture among modern Spanish artists.  Each sculpture was presented with a painting by the same artist, with the idea that the one work could be used to inform an understanding of the other. (http://www.namoc.org/en/Exhibitions/201303/t20130328_178653.html)

Although this exhibition was in Beijing, and featured Spanish artists, it nevertheless reminded me of the earlier one.  Both were beautiful.





(Above - painting and sculpture by Andreu Alfaro)






(Above - painting and sculpture by Eduardo Chillida)



(Above - painting and sculpture by Picasso)

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Four days in Spain

Cliches
What are the cliches about Spanish people? From a British perspective, I think they go something like this: Spanish people are romantic…hot-headed…spontaneous. I want to refute the cliches, but then the very first thing I see on exiting arrivals is a vending machine full of flowers, presumably for romantically-minded men who want to surprise their lover with a gift, but didn't think ahead. I later saw the same kind of vending machine at train stations across Madrid. Damn those cliches.

To my surprise, Madrilenos made the effort to talk to me in Spanish, and showed patience and humor when dealing with the language barrier. This attitude to their own language - recognition that not everyone speaks it, combined with the willingness to share it with others - contrasts nicely with experiences I have had elsewhere. For example, China, where I still come across strangers who insist on speaking to me in English, even though I speak Chinese well; and France (or rather, Paris), where people seemed to expect me not only to speak French, but to be able to do so at native standard.

I stayed close to Lavapies, which is the old Jewish quarter. I doubt there are many Jews there now, but it's still an area for immigrants: Chinese, Arabs, Indians and Africans if the shops are anything to go by. 






As with east London, it's the areas with the most ethnic mixing that have the best street art. It must be something about the experience of being an outsider that makes people want to personalize their local environment.





Toledo
[Stendhal syndromeStendhal's syndromehyperkulturemia, or Florence syndrome: apsychosomatic disorder that causes rapid heartbeat, dizziness, fainting, confusion and even hallucinations when an individual is exposed to art, usually when the art is particularly beautiful or a large amount of art is in a single place. The term can also be used to describe a similar reaction to a surfeit of choice in other circumstances, e.g. when confronted with immense beauty in the natural world.]

Toledo is about 30 minutes from Madrid by the fast train. It used to be the capital of Spain, and it's still the religious heart - Toledo cathedral is the seat of the Primate of all Spain. It's easy to see why. Toledo is a quiet city, yet as you cross the cathedral threshold, the stillness is shattering. I stood, gaped, wondered…cool, pale and wordless in the cool, pale, wordless space.





I don't usually get excited about visiting churches (even if there is something chastening about the fact that for several hundred years the most impressive buildings in the West were monuments to faith), but there is something different about Toledo's cathedral. It could be the size - it's one of the tallest cathedrals I've been in; or it could be the color of the stone; or perhaps it is something else entirely, but it is the only church I can remember that has made me feel religious awe.

And then there is Toledo itself. It was full of textures that I don't see in China, and that I realized I hazily miss - cobble-stones, lattice, brickwork, beams - all of them under an El Greco sky. It made me wonder if Europe could somehow be conjured out of the right configuration of these materials, if "home" isn't, after all, just a question of carefully arranged sensory clues.






But, if you dig deeper, there are sides to Toledo that speak of a different past: arabesques, and the local Mudejar style of decoration are reminders that Spain only became fully Christian in 1492. In fact, the cathedral itself was built on the site of a former mosque, and until the middle ages, there were still communities of Arabs and Jews living in the city. And then, elsewhere, there are the dungeons that the Inquisition used - now turned into a museum housing a temporary exhibition of Leonardo da Vinci inventions, painstakingly re-created to scale.






Marathon
The Madrid marathon took place on Sunday 28 April. For one day, main roads were closed, as a 10,000 strong crowd of pedestrians took over the city. On the metro in the morning, three quarters of the carriages were filled with runners. Madrilenos lined the streets to hand out encouragement and carved-up slices of oranges.

I didn't see any fancy dress, which is one of the hallmarks of the London marathon (and perhaps British culture more generally - is there another country that enjoys dressing up so much?), but all ages and colors were on display. The most impressive were the men who ran 26+ miles while pushing children in strollers, but I was also stunned by the number of white-haired old men who took part, and clocked times of less than 3.5 hours.

Finally, thank you to Anton for letting me stay in his flat in central Madrid for several days, and to Alberto for urging me to visit Toledo.  

Home thoughts from home



Oh, to be in England
Now that April's there...

Here are some photos from my just completed trip to the UK.  


London Eye as seen in the morning

London Bridge

St. Paul's

Let them eat cake!...at Fortnum and Mason's

Big Ben - within an hour of the earlier photos - behold the mutability of English weather
Deliberate (?) visual gag on the cover of the Times - the sheep story headline was in much smaller type
York Minster

Haworth village - home of the Brontes

Just outside Haworth

Haworth church

The UK's second national dish (after chicken tikka masala), Hereford-style

Chinese people shooting wedding photos near London Bridge


If you enjoyed these, there are more photos at the following website:
http://fouparunautretourdefolie.blogspot.com